The Fancy Butter Buying Guide

Bloomberg Pursuits Food

Photo: Mitchell Feinberg for Bloomberg Businessweek

By Emily Saladino

In October, news of a French butter shortage shook the food world to its croissant-shaped core. Prices tripled in France as consumers nervously hoarded caches.  In some areas, as much as 46 percent of demand went unmet, according to Nielsen Holding Plc.

Considering how basic ingredients are–butter is nothing more than milk cream churned into semisolid, separable fat–the shortage seemed implausible. But various economic forces around the world converged to shrink supplies: In 2015 the European Union ceased milk quotas, leading to a brief glut of dairy products that ended up with farmers on the Continent decreasing output by 3 percent.

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A person wearing a hat, gloves, and work clothes stands at an outdoor research station at Correia Family Dairy, pouring a reddish liquid into a large funnel-shaped container connected to hoses and pipes. Several plastic sample bottles sit on the ground nearby, and shade cloths overhead provide cover. The setup includes pumps, tubing, and monitoring devices, suggesting a water, soil, or nutrient treatment experiment.

These very hungry microbes devour a powerful pollutant

PETALUMA, Calif. — The cows had to be deterred from messing with the
experiment.

Researchers from a Bay Area technology company had come to the sprawling
dairy farm north of San Francisco to test an emerging solution to planetwarming emissions: microscopic pink organisms that eat methane, a potent
greenhouse gas.

Kenny Correia, 35, of Correia Family Dairy, watched the team from Windfall Bio
working near the lagoons used to store manure from the farm’s several hundred
cows. The researchers erected a futuristic system of vats, pipes, tubes and shiny
metal supports. Then, when everything was assembled, they poured pink liquid
into one of the vats. “They were looking like mad scientists out there,” Correia
recounted.

He acknowledged initially thinking it was a “crazy idea” to integrate an outdoor
laboratory into a working farm. There was the potential for the cows to “be all
over it — licking it, pulling out wires and scratching on it,” he said.
But livestock farms are a significant source of methane emissions, and Windfall
wanted to see how much the microbes could help.

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